Pure sine wave, 1500 W:
Product Features:
High conversion efficiency and fast startup;
Pure sine wave output;
Soft-start function;
Strong load adaptability and stability;
Provides overcurrent and short-circuit protection to prevent electrical equipment damage;
The fan is controlled by both temperature and power, ensuring safe and efficient operation; Built-in fuse – safe and reliable.
DC voltage is customizable:12V,24V, 36V,72V,96V, 110V, etc.; AC voltage is customizable: 120V,200V, etc.; sockets for various countries can be customized. Performance Specifications
Somewhere between a small car inverter and a heavy workshop unit is the size most real installations settle on. Smaller than our 2000 W and 5000 W models, larger than the 800 W and 1000 W entry units, this is the one that carries a campervan's fridge and coffee machine, a service van's tools, or a cabin's evening load without the bulk or the battery draw of the bigger boxes.
Feed it from the battery bank the vehicle or building already has, and this DC to AC power inverter produces a mains-quality AC supply for appliances that dislike a stepped or modified waveform. The case mounts flat against a wall or floor panel, and the unit is light enough for one person to lift into a compartment.
We build it as a power inverter manufacturer rather than as a catalogue house: the DC voltage, the AC output voltage and the socket standard are all set per order, so the unit arrives matched to the bank it will run from and to the market it will be installed or resold in.
If you are replacing a fixed commercial inverter, the practical difference is choice — a 48 V input for a long cable run, a 220 VAC output for a European build, a socket type the end user already has on the wall.
| Parameter | Rating |
|---|---|
| Rated output power | 1500 W continuous |
| Peak power | 3000 W (within 5 ms) |
| DC input voltage | 12 V / 24 V / 48 V |
| DC input range | 10.6–15.5 V / 21.2–31 V / 42–61.8 V |
| Output voltage | 110 VAC ±10% / 220 VAC ±5% |
| Output frequency | 50 Hz ±1% / 60 Hz ±1% |
| Discharge waveform | Pure sine wave |
| Waveform distortion | THD 86% (DC 13 V) / >88% (DC 26 V) / >90% (DC 52 V) |
| Overload protection | 113%–120% |
| Parameter | Rating |
|---|---|
| Working temperature | −10 °C to +50 °C (cold start to −40 °C available on request) |
| Storage temperature | −30 °C to +70 °C |
| Humidity | 20%–90% RH, no condensation |
| Operating altitude | ≤1200 m |
| Product size | 368 × 199 × 78 mm |
| Net weight | 4.3 ± 0.05 kg |
| Packing measurement, 1 unit | 455 × 260 × 170 mm |
| Packing measurement, 2 units | 455 × 260 × 305 mm |
Three input versions cover the common vehicle and cabin banks: 12 V, 24 V and 48 V. The model code reads input first and output second, so a unit labelled L1500-12-220 is the 12 V input version with a 220 VAC output, and the label on the case always tells you which one you are holding.
Choose by the bank that already exists rather than by what looks convenient. A 12V DC power inverter build suits small banks, car and van systems and short cable runs, where the heavy current has little distance to travel. Step up to 24 V and the current for the same AC load halves, which lets you use thinner cable and a smaller fuse. A 48 V build is the sensible choice for a long run from a rear-mounted bank to a forward-mounted unit, and it is also the most efficient of the three.
Current draw is the part buyers underestimate. At full output the DC power supply side of a 12 V installation carries a heavy current, so keep the cable short and generously sized, and fit the fuse close to the battery terminal rather than at the inverter.
If the bank is lithium, compare the BMS cut-off with the inverter's own low-voltage alarm and shutdown points. A BMS that disconnects earlier will take the unit offline first — safe, but it can look like an inverter fault until you trace it.
The standard builds cover 12 V, 24 V and 48 V inputs with 110 VAC or 220 VAC outputs, but the unit is not locked to those. DC input can be built for 36 V, 72 V, 96 V or 110 V packs, and AC output for 120 V, 200 V and other voltages, with the frequency set to 50 Hz or 60 Hz for the destination market.
Sockets are chosen per order as well. The AC outlet is fitted for the country where the unit will be used or resold, so a shipment for North America and one for Europe do not have to be the same hardware.
Where the standard working range is not enough — a cold-climate vehicle, an unheated container, a winter job site — a cold-start version that brings the unit up below freezing can be specified.
As a power inverter manufacturer we treat these as build options rather than exceptions. Send the DC voltage window of the pack, the AC voltage and frequency your market uses, the socket standard and, where it matters, the cold-start requirement, and the quotation comes back for that exact configuration rather than for a generic unit with a note attached.
Idle draw before a long installation. Ask for the no-load current of the exact model you are quoting, because it is not one figure across the range. Even with nothing plugged in, the dc power supply side stays live whenever the battery is connected, and the current it takes is higher on a 12 V build than on a 48 V build doing the same AC work. On a large bank that is charged daily this disappears into the noise. On a small bank in a stored campervan or a seasonal cabin it is what decides whether the pack is still healthy after six weeks.
Use the fuse as a seasonal isolator. Fit the fuse or breaker close to the battery terminal — the one the installation needs anyway — and treat it as the isolator between trips. That removes the idle draw and any slow drain through the DC wiring in a single action. The unit's own low-voltage cut-off keeps the pack from being pulled down too deep, but it is no substitute for isolating the supply when the 1500 watt dc to ac power inverter will sit unused for weeks.
What the fan should be doing. The fan answers to both heatsink temperature and output load, so under a light overnight load of a laptop, a router and a few LED lamps it may not turn at all, or only drift round slowly. That is normal. Continuous full speed on a modest load is the signal to look at the compartment rather than at the unit: blocked vents, gear stored against the grille, or a mounting spot with no air moving past it.
A once-a-season check. Isolate the DC supply, then check that the terminal screws are still tight and free of the green or white corrosion that damp air leaves behind. Confirm the fuse holder is sound and the fuse is the correct rating, clear dust and lint out of the fan grille and the vents with a dry brush or low-pressure air, check that the mounting screws have not worked loose on a vehicle, and look over the AC socket and lead for chafing where the cable passes through a panel.
Storage between seasons. With the DC supply isolated, the unit stores without drama: keep it dry, off a damp concrete floor, covered against dust, and inside its stated storage temperature range. Bring it back to room temperature before applying a load, so no condensation is sitting on the boards when power arrives. Where a unit has to start in real cold — an unheated container, a winter job site, a vehicle in a cold climate — specify the cold-start build at the order stage rather than hoping the standard version copes.
What not to do. Do not open the case to look inside; there is nothing serviceable in there for the installer, and the seal is part of what keeps moisture out. Do not spray cleaner into the vents or wash the unit down. Do not lengthen the DC run with thinner cable than the installation calls for, and do not add a second appliance to a circuit that is already close to the continuous rating.
If something looks wrong. Note the model code, what the indicator LED did and whether the fan was running, then get in touch. A fuse blown by reversed polarity is a field replacement; anything beyond that, as the power inverter manufacturer we would rather inspect the unit ourselves than have it opened on site, and the model code plus a description of the LED behaviour is usually enough for us to tell you what happened.
Buying power-conversion hardware rarely fails on the unit itself; it fails on the match. Tell our engineers the input and output voltages, the current your load draws and how the unit will be controlled and mounted, and they will confirm the right configuration or quote a customized one. Lincoren has run its own full-power R&D platform and pilot base in Nanjing since 2010, so selection, wiring and commissioning questions go to the people who designed the unit, not to a call centre. Fault diagnosis and replacement support continue after delivery.
Yes — permanent wiring is how most of these units are installed in a van, a cabin or a service truck. Run the positive cable through a fuse or breaker mounted close to the battery terminal, so the cable is protected even when the inverter is switched off. For long idle periods, isolate the supply at that fuse rather than relying on the unit's own cut-off, and check the DC terminals for tightness and corrosion before the season starts.
No. This is a DC to AC power inverter, so power moves one way only: out of the battery bank and into the AC loads. Charging is handled by a separate on-board charger or a mains charger on the DC side, chosen for the same pack voltage.
The no-load figure varies with the input version, so ask for the DC power supply draw of the exact model you are considering. It matters most when a small bank stays connected for weeks: idle draw, not efficiency at full load, is what flattens a battery in that situation.
Yes. The standard builds are 12 V, 24 V and 48 V, but the DC input is made to order and can be set for 36 V, 72 V, 96 V or 110 V packs among others. Send the pack's nominal voltage, its full-charge and cut-off voltages and the BMS limits, so the input window and the protection points are set for the pack you actually have.
Add up the running watts of everything that will be on at the same time, then look separately at the appliances with motors, because a fridge, a pump or a power tool pulls several times its running wattage for a moment at start-up. Keep the running total inside the continuous rating and leave headroom for that surge. If the total lands close to the rating, move up to the 2000 W model instead of running this one at its limit.
Very little: keep the fan and vents clear of dust and stored clothing, check the DC terminals for tightness and corrosion once a season, and site it somewhere that stays inside the stated temperature and humidity limits. A fuse blown by a reversed connection is replaceable, and beyond that, as a power inverter manufacturer we would rather see a unit come back to us for inspection than have it opened on site.
